10 things about surfing you should know

June 24, 2020

10 things about surfing you should know

Lovers of nature and adventure see the sea and waves in a different and unique way. For us it is not just salt water… it is not just wind energy or “mechanical waves” as it is scientifically known, nor is it a simple change in density and pressure.

Although the science behind this natural phenomenon explains how waves are generated, it is the more than 35 million surfers worldwide who give them their true meaning.

Modern surfing, although it has become a global industry that generates approximately 7.3 billion euros a year approximately, has proposed over time to tame nature, test the human condition, and feel the freedom that all that suppose.

And this is something that true surfers know from the heart. Do you know If you are not a professional surfer or you are starting the sport, we have compiled the best curious facts about surfing, so you can learn more about this incredible extreme sport. You can't miss them!

10 things about surfing you should know

DISCOVER 10 THINGS YOU DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT SURFING AND WAVES!

  1. Surfing was not invented in Hawaii but in Peru!

If you believed that surfing originated in Hawaii, think twice. Although we think that the Hawaiians are the creators of this sport, its origins of surfing really come from America before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492.

In northern Peru, ceramic pieces have been found sculpted by ancient civilizations, detailing human figures on tables among the waves.

Certainly, by the year 1778 when Europeans arrived in Hawaii, surfing was already part of their culture, but only because they had previously traveled to Peru on one of their trips, as the brave sailors who have always been, and would have then adopted this discipline between its culture, which was incredibly adapted to its coasts and marine currents.

But the story does not end there! As colonizers approached the Hawaiian Islands, they began to ban all traditional Aboriginal activity as part of their indoctrination - including surfing - between the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries. Subsequently, surfing resurfaced in the XNUMXth century.

And we owe this revival to the Olympic swimming champion Duke Kahanamoku, also known as the "Great Kahuna" or "Big Kahuna", born in Honolulu, in 1890. Today, Duke is considered the inventor of modern surfing, since who was able to promote and spread that ancient Hawaiian discipline. Sometimes he would build his own board instantly for surfing!

  1. The first surfing championship in history was held in 1928.

The Pacific Coast Surfriding Championship was organized by the 12 members of the local surf club in California (USA), who managed to celebrate in Corona Mar the first surf tournament in history. Europe did not hold Surf Championships until 1979, when they held the Lacanau Pro in France.

  1. The largest recorded wave in history measured 530 meters!

In 1958, the largest wave to date, about 530m, was recorded in Alaska, as a consequence of a magnitude 7.8 earthquake that occurred in Lituya Bay.

  1. Gary Saavedra holds the world record for the longest time surfing on a board.

The Panamanian surfer managed to achieve his feat in Lake Gatún, located on the Pacific side of the Panama Canal. In 2011, Gary covered 66,46 kilometers in total, while doing Wake Surf in a non-static wave originated by a boat on site. Three hours and 55 minutes was the time Gary Saavedra stayed on his surf board.

  1. Donald Detlof has been the largest collector of surfboards in the world.

The collection was kept for many years in his own home in Hawaii and has more than 800 different tables, styles, sizes and clothing. It started as a small hobby to prevent them from destroying boards that were no longer used, and very soon all the locals left the boards they no longer used at their doorstep. Detlof finally used the surfboards to build a fence around his house. Interesting, right?

  1. Henry P. Douglas was the creator of the sea classification scale, based on the size of the waves.

In 1917, Henry P. Douglas created a scale to classify the different states of the sea taking the size of the waves as a reference. Douglas was then director of the British Navy Meteorological Service, and was serving as vice-admiral. Hence, the scale "Douglas" is currently used for maritime indications, waves and tides. Currently, in the practice of surfing two scales are taken into account to measure the intensity of the waves: In addition to the Douglas Scale, which classifies the different states of the sea in 10 degrees in relation to the size of the waves, it is also taken into account the Beaufort Scale, whose empirical measurement focuses on the intensity of the wind, based on the state of the sea, the force of the wind and its waves.

  1. Is it possible to surf in a river? The answer is yes!

It is certainly not as well known and esteemed as surfing at sea, but the truth is that river surfing has become increasingly popular. Freshwater surfing is possible at certain times of the year, when some rivers create reverse flows that allow the generation of waves, which are commonly known as tidal holes. Some places where you can surf in the river is France, which is loaded with waves due to the water that melts from the Alps; also the Ottawa river in Canada; in Missoula, Montana (USA); and in Munich, Germany; among others. Do you dare to try it?

  1. Dogs are not far behind in the world of surfing!

And, in fact, the dogs have their own international surfing competition in Huntington Beach, California, where they are rated for their confidence in the waves, and their permanence on the boards. For years, the annual Surf City Surf Dog competition has been organized to raise money for animal welfare organizations. Who'd say!

  1. The largest wave in history ever surfed measured 24,38 meters.

Rodrigo Koxa was the brave surfer to tame her in Praia do Noreste, in Nazaré (Portugal), where the biggest waves in the world surf. The event took place on November 8, 2017. In this way, Koxa wins the last Guinness Record imposed in this same location by the surfer Garret McNamara, of 23.7 meters. However, currently it is still debated whether McNamara himself has broken the record after surfing a large 30-meter wave there, although this has not been officially confirmed by the Guinness World Records committee.

  1. Can you ski on waves?

You read correctly: ski on waves! He Wave Skiing It is a reality that very few know, and that is ... Who came up with combining skiing with surfing in this amazing way? Waveski is a sport that has existed since the 70's and was previously known as “Paddle skiing”, but later it received its official name to avoid confusion with other similar water sports. Since then, waveski has grown to become a dynamic sport for practicing between big waves at sea. This sport has its own equipment and board model (depending on the case) and also comes with a kayak paddle with which the surfer / skier leans to do their maneuvers! Surely not many had heard of skiing in the waves ! However, skier and surfer Chuck Patterson has become increasingly popular skiing waves with real skis in Pe'ahí, Hawaii, the famous spot that surfers simply call "JAWS". Amazing, right?

10 things about surfing you should knowA little information about surfing never hurts, but you get the real experience in action. If you are a lover of extreme sports and want to venture into the world of surfing, remember to practice a lot, understand the risks, and become one with the sea. Go ahead, crack!


Leave a comment

Comments will be approved before showing.

Related Publications

Yosemite climbing
Yosemite climbing
The climbers' guild - from experience and reputation - knows this very well… climbing in Yosemite is amazing! This location is considered a mecca for the best rock climbers around the world.
Read more
Ski Goggles: Discover everything you need to know about ski goggles!
Ski Goggles: Discover everything you need to know about ski goggles!
If you are a beginner and need to know a little more before buying your ski goggles, we give you an introduction that will completely clear your doubts. Once you have chosen your pair of skis, the tea clothes
Read more
Sports Sunglasses: Should I wear them all the time?
Sports Sunglasses: Should I wear them all the time?
Understanding the importance of wearing sports sunglasses if you play outdoor sports will be key for you to protect yourself properly and feel comfortable when you play sports or exercise
Read more
10 DOCUMENTARIES ON ADVENTURE SPORTS
10 DOCUMENTARIES ON ADVENTURE SPORTS
When we think about extreme sports the first thing that comes to mind is adventure and adrenaline. Defying nature and testing our human condition leads us to really feel
Read more
Paragliding in Pokhara: flying over central Nepal
Paragliding in Pokhara: flying over central Nepal
If you are thinking of paragliding, Pokhara is one of the best spots to do it. This city, also called "the gateway to the Annapurnas" (a popular route through the Himalayas), is located
Read more
Glasses Online: A practical guide to buying sunglasses on the Internet
Glasses Online: A practical guide to buying sunglasses on the Internet
Little by little we have been realizing that shopping on the internet is increasingly practical, easy and necessary in today's times. And the most exciting thing of all is that we can buy from all
Read more
Running Glasses
Running Glasses
Indispensable when you practice Running and Trekking. Outdoor sports are extremely liberating for the body and spirit. They give us a feeling of freedom that I definitely don't know.
Read more
8D MUSIC: What is 8D music and why should you start listening to it?
8D MUSIC: What is 8D music and why should you start listening to it?
If you haven't heard about 8D music or 8-dimensional music yet, this post will make you freak out. It is a type of music adapted to technological modifications that is really cool.
Read more