Lovers of extreme sports and adventure in the water only want one thing: Waves, waves, and more waves! And it is that the climate can be whatever it is, but the important thing is that the sea is in the ideal conditions to practice the sport that we love the most, and that the wind accompanies some waves They're good for taming.
What are the waves?
By definition, a wave is a “wave of great amplitude that is formed on the surface of the water by wind or currents”. It is an "atmospheric phenomenon that produces sudden variation in the temperature of a place." In this way, waves are ripples of water on the surface of the sea. The waves they travel many kilometers across the surface of the sea at very varied speeds; they generally flow onto the beaches.
However, for many, waves They are much more than that, they are the perfect opportunity to demonstrate your courage in the face of the force of nature and venture into some of the most extreme activities possible to do on our planet earth. More than the possibility of doing sports or enjoying them in water activities at sea, the waves They give us adventurers the possibility to face some of the most satisfying challenges for any athlete who loves life and nature, whether you are a surfer, wakesurfer, windsurfer, kite surfer and more.
How do the waves originate?
Companies that waves Most common ones will originate depending on the strength of the wind, the time during which it is blowing and the oceanic area that the wind affects. In this way, the waves Most traditional ones originate from the friction of the wind on the surface of the sea, since the wind pushes the surface of the sea creating waves that resist the wind which causes them to transform into increasingly larger ripples, retro-feeding for their formation and final break.
The gravity of the earth also plays a fundamental role in this equation, since after the wind raises the surface of the sea, gravity pushes it down again, thus, when going up and down, an associated kinetic energy accumulates. to the wave that forms.
THE SAID: The most common is that waves They are formed by the wind, although the truth is that it depends on the conditions in which they occur and the way in which they are formed in the sea. There is a wave classification wider than you imagine! Do you already know the different types of waves? Keep reading and discover all the types of waves that exist according to their different characteristics!
Discover the different types of waves that exist according to their outbreak, origin and formation!
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTION OF THEIR OUTBREAK (direction in which they break)
- When surfing it, we move to the right.
- They have a peak in the highest area.
- Break progressively to the right.
- When surfing them, we move to the left.
- They have a peak in the highest area.
- Progressively break to the left
MIXED WAVES (PEAKS)
- It breaks in both directions.
- You choose whether to surf the wave from right to left or vice versa.
- It can be surfed by more than one surfer, one in each direction.
- The wave breaks completely suddenly,
- It has no wall and we can't go anywhere in particular.
- Shipping is waves they do not have a beak.
- Its entire extension breaks at once.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE FORMATION OF THE WAVE
- They arise from the effect of the wind on sea water.
- They are created a short distance from the coast and in a short time.
- Small and unstable, they break (outbreaks) in a hasty manner.
- They mix different directions, generally uncomfortable to surf.
- In areas with little sea depth, such as the Mediterranean, they are very good for surfing.
WAVES “SWELL” (SEA WAVES IN THE BACKGROUND)
- Of good quality and size, they are not affected by the wind.
- They occur thousands of kilometers away from where they break (outbreaks).
- Much stronger than the wind waves when reaching the coast.
- As they occur at a great distance from the coast, it is easy to predict when they will reach the beach.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE TYPE OF SEA BOTTOM
WAVES WITH SAND BACKGROUND
- The wave breaks on a sandy bottom.
- They are less dangerous than the rest of the funds.
- Shipping is waves unstable, they vary according to tides and currents.
WAVES WITH ROCK BACKGROUND
- The wave breaks on a stone or rock bottom.
- They are very stable funds, there are hardly any variations,
Surf very constant, with similar peaks.
- They are dangerous bottoms, only for expert surfers.
WAVES WITH CORAL BACKGROUND
- The wave breaks on a coral reef bottom.
- They have the same conditions as rock bottoms.
- Coral is a living organism, with little growth, maintaining stability
- They occur in more oxygenated waters, the bottom is easier to observe.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THEIR CATEGORY
OSCILLATION WAVES (FREE WAVES)
- They are produced according to variations in sea level, they are formed on its surface.
- The water of the sea does not advance; they give a little twist to the site.
- They occur many kilometers from the coast.
- They occur when the sea advances and crashes against the seabed.
- When rising they vary the surface of the sea.
- They generally occur near the coast.
- They form a lot of foam when breaking.
- Companies that waves forced are produced by the wind.
- They usually occur because of storms formed at sea.
- Are not waves very stable, difficult to predict when they reach the coast.
- Difficult to surf.
SEISMIC WAVES (TSUNAMIS)
- Caused by an earthquake, volcanic explosion and movement of tectonic plates.
- The change in pressure modifies its size and produces waves with great force and dimension.
- Formed by large waves that go at high speed in the high seas.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE FORM OF THEIR OUTBREAK (Way of breaking)
- The crest of the wave surpasses the base of it
- A cylindrical shape is generated inside.
- Shipping is waves perfect for surfing.
- Variation of waves hollow
- The upper part lifts up and closes a tube inside.
- Surfers catch their wall completely surrounded by it.
- Its base is ahead of its highest part.
- Almost completely foam.
- They generally do not break (outbreaks)
- They lack much slope.
- Break (outbreaks) very close to the shore.
- Shipping is waves which can be very small or extremely giant
- They generally offer little space to surf.
- Ideal for other types of surf such as Skim (Skimboard).
* Discover the 10 most incredible photons of waves and outbreaks here!*
In scientific terms, waves are described as generating sources of energy formed by the force of the wind in an area of the ocean and which is technically called as fect, but, as we have already seen, the creation of waves they involve much more than that. It is thanks to a wide source of factors that their creation can take place, and it will also depend on that classification that the waves whether or not they are ideal for surfing or practicing other water sports on a board. Did you already know this wide classification of types of waves? Tell us which are some of your favorites!
En The Indian Face® We are inspired every day by the beauty and the outside of nature, in the majestic breaking of the waves in the distance and in their outbreak in rocky areas ...